Rag & Bone - Spring/Summer 2013
THE foundation of Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's rapidly expanding brand Rag & Bone remains constant. "It's always about a British girl in New York," Neville said backstage after the spring/summer 2013 runway show. But it's what he and Wainwright layer on top of that initial seed that elevates their collections from monotony. Through these atmospheric seasonal add-ons, they've found their footing, and a distinct point of view, without ever sacrificing the tenants that have cemented their reputation as downtown's go-to brand. "We were thinking of the Dakar rally," Wainwright said about spring's extra element, referring to the off-road race that, when it first started in the Seventies, began in Paris before speeding south towards Africa.
This idea materialised via floaty lightweight jackets, motor cross-inspired quilted outerwear, and their signature slouchy, tapered pants - this time with geometric inserts. The duo was also thinking of Bedouin dress, and its Arabic influences could be seen in a dusty, sand-toned palette, wispy head wraps, and draping, voluminous tops, some of which resembled tunics of the Middle East, while others called to mind oversize men's dress shirts, a play on label's fondness for a play on the masculine-feminine.
And as for the British references? Window pane checks, seen on a rippling skirt and a trim blazer paid homage to the Duke of Windsor, while embroidered edgings and fuller, flared skirts hinted at classic petticoats. The collection as a whole never fell prey to becoming too literal with pops of neon green and perky corals adding a visual texture. As usual, outerwear, from filmy wrap-coat dresses to hulking sleeveless coats, were a highlight. So wherever she may roam - be it the arid desert or the moody moors of the English countryside, the nomadic British expat that serves as omnipresent muse Neville and Wainwright come back to time and again has one thing with her at all times: an unaffected, and utterly contemporary, sense of style.
Cobalt Blue Trend
'It would be unjust to pay homage to autumn's favourite primary without referencing the dressing down Meryl Streep gave Anne Hathaway in The Devil Wears Prada. It was a monologue that opened our lexicon to what laymen would have once called 'blue'.
"You go to your closet and you select that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis. It's actually cerulean. And you're also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers." And so she went on.
When the autumn shows rolled out in February, it was clear designers hadn't quite cast off thoughts of their upcoming summer holidays. An ocean of azure washed over the catwalks, making a bold statement for winter where elsewhere traditional autumnal hues of forest green, earthy burgundy and midnight navy dominated.'
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2012-13-autumn-winter/cobalt